Hello my friends, another video on the Golf 4 convertible I'll show you today how to make a service on this car We'll do the so-called inspection 2 or the large service I have a list of all service points here, which I follow now step by step In step 1 we check all the lights Parking lights – yes Low beam – yes High beam – yes Hazard lights – yes Indicators left – yes Indicators right – yes The height adjusting of the lights, the beam must go up and down Anyhow, it's a good idea to move them from time to time The dimming of the instruments is working The same procedure in the rear Rear lights – yes The license plate lights is also working brake lights – yes all three – yes rear fog lamp – yes Reversing lights – yes The trunk lamp is also working Also the interior lighting is working Let's check the indicator lamps All lamps light up when the ignition is turned on And all when the engine is running the indicator lamps switch off Let's check the horn I scan the onboard diagnostics for error codes The OBD II connector you'll find here The device tries to link up to the control unit of the engine The device looks for the connection protocol It found a protocol, no error codes are stored in the system, all is fine Unplug the scanner I look for the airbags, all covers are fine, no one exploded There was also no error code I press this button for resetting the service interval and switch on the ignition The inspection 2 is due Switch off the ignition and press the hidden button with a ball pen until the service is cleared Select the service 2 to be cleared It's cleared now Inspection 1 is cleared All service intervals are reset Switching on the ignition now, you see In 00, meaning no service is due In the next step, I give oil for the door locks Move it several times fore and back to make it smoothly working You see it working well Give some oil on the upper hinge Here and here also, and on the bolt here And some molybdenum disulfide grease for the door support These steps you must repeat for the other door The lock of the engine hood gets also some oil Give also some oil on the baggage lid Oil is good for all movable parts The same procedure as for the doors, oil is helpful We continue with changing the oil The engine should be hot for doing this, be careful with your fingers Open the plug screw with a stroke Remove the screw plug, use a cloth or gloves, the oil is hot And then let the oil flow out with a great flux And we have a great flow I wait always for the last drop flowing out When the dripping ends, you install the screw plug Fasten the plug The oil filter is placed in front here The special tool for the filter fails, there is no place for it I'll use a classic chain for it The rest I can do with the hand More oil is flowing out, put the oil pan below Put it in the pan Clean the seating area before installing the new filter Clean also the spilled oil Because the oil filter is installed in this orientation, it's possible to fill the filter already This way the pressure is built up faster Coat the gasket with oil Grease is better, you aren't confused later with the oil drop, which may indicate a leak Install the prefilled filter, don't tilt it, it's full of oil Search the thread and screw it in In principle, it's enough to fasten the filter by hand But my fingers are oily now and there is little access Thus, I use the special tool and a wrench That's already enough The engine gets 4 l of oil I fill less and I'll check it in between at the dipstick Let's have a look on the dipstick I think such controls are better than just filling the nominal amount of oil Nothing to see, 1l more Now we are a little over minimum, I fill 3/4 l more Now the level is precisely on max, we can run the engine for a test Remove the funnel and close the lid When I'll start the engine now, it's normal that the oil lamp lights longer as usual The oil must distribute and the filter must be filled Fire up, the lamp is flashing a while, I step on the gas, 2000 RPM and the light is off I check the oil level, first I must wipe the stick dry We are just a little over the minimum, I must fill more Let's do a check, all is perfect The next test point would be the timing belt and the drive belts I can skip the belts, it has been just changed, watch the video I can skip also the brakes, watch the video for the front brakes, or the video on the rear brakes Check the gearbox, it looks dry The VW service had the same idea for the last 20 years, the screw was never open Let's have a check The oil control screw for the gearbox is on the side here The control screw is very dirty, I clean it with a brass brush For the control screw you need a 17 mm Allen key, typical for VW Take care, that the key is well in the head The best is to give a punch on the key Now it's working better You have seen how stuck it has been, it was never open No oil is flowing out, thus the level is too low For the filling you should use such a useful bottle Fill in until the oil is flowing out Screw in the control screw when it starts dripping Fasten the screw carefully It's a conical sealing, don't fasten too strong When you feel the resistance a tick more and it's okay Otherwise, it won't be possible to slacken again Check the drive axle boots, these ones look rather good A major problem you recognize by the grease coming out The same with the inner boots Most times the outer boots are the problem Check the boot of the lower ball joint No grease, it's fine Check the tie rod end of the steering Check for play and tightness Check the steering boots on both sides Check the engine for leakage Look for oil and the red crystals of the cooling liquid Here in the front are a lot of hoses Nothing to see Go along the steering power lines, look if all is tight Check the radiator Control the exhaust system, starting at the manifold The brackets are tight, the rubber mounts are fine No cracks the middle muffler is fine The end muffler has been replaced already Check the underbody protection, Senseless, I have never seen this model having problems here It would have been better, if they would have made some protection around the A pillar Check the level of the cooling liquid Let's detect the freezing point -35 °C, perfect Now comes my famous tongue twister "Scheibenwischwaschwasser" (windscreen cleaner) Close the lid and all is fine Let's look for the wiper, we need to replace Down is a lug, press it and pull the wipers Install the new one this way, and just pull it And it's in The same procedure on the drivers side Please remember, when mounting wipers with a spoiler, the spoiler must be on the lower side Clip it in Check also the upper side of the engine I look for leaks, loose cables or hoses or other damages Check the level of the brake liquid I don't know, if you can see it well, it's just on MAX I continue with the liquid for the power steering After cleaning I check the level, it's just at the upper edge of the grooved surface, perfect Be careful, no dirt should enter into the system The battery check is done rapidly, this is a maintenance-free battery The car still starts well, we go on with this battery I continue with the spark plugs, you must change them when the engine is cold You may loosen the spark plugs in the hot engine, but don't fasten them in the hot engine The access to the spark plug of cylinder 1 is easy Before replacing the spark plugs, I clean the surrounding with pressured air It are the small spark plugs with a 16 mm head This one turns easily I check always immediately the color of the electrodes, these look fine Check the distance of the electrodes on the new spark plug My finger nail is my gauge Insert the spark plug without the electrode somewhere You must hit the channel precisely It must turn easily, only then it's okay The right torque for the spark plug is 20 – 25 Nm and 25 Nm And of course the socket is stuck on the spark plug If you are not willing, the uncle doctor will come with the pliers Next comes the connector Push it down until you hear the click Check the cable, it looks fine Now we'll have some fun, the spark plug of the second cylinder Unplug the injection valve for having a chance Pull the connector with the special pliers It's just possible to bend it to the side With a wobble extension it's just possible And we have the spark plug – it's a little too white With the wobble extension it's rather difficult to insert the spark plug Fasten the spark plug wit 25 Nm Try to plug the connector And it made a click, all is in, don't forget the plug of the injection valve At cylinder 3 we have the same problem The connector of the injector is in the way Remove also this cable by a levering under the mount Without the cable we have more space Pull the connector, the spark plug is below After these preparations, we can remove the spark plug easily This time we have altogether The same procedure, awful hanky-panky And the right torque Push down the connector Push until the click Mount back the cable and connect the injection valve The spark plug of the cylinder 4 is a piece of a cake, you'll do yourself now Put some grease on the clutch cable and the rest on the throttle cable Now you have learned how to do the service of your Golf I'll go for a test drive and I say bye, bye
