welcome to our live demo on bluffing today we're going to talk about the
basics of buffing so I recover what happens when you're buff different
wheels two different compounds and some safety and some tips and tricks like
we've been doing with the previous one so let's get started so buffing buffing is basically just hit
a pretty basic concept you're just getting rid of the extreme
highs and lows when you're doing buffing in metal so if you have a really high spot or
really low spot trying to even those all out so it's as flat as possible so you
can bring up the brilliant finish of whatever metal that you're that you're
bluffing or polishing is so now you got the basics of that i'm going to get into
this showing you the different wheels first we're going to start with the most
aggressive and work our way up to the the most fine it's going to give you the
really high luster so the first one here that we have
available is this it's an expanding wheel is what we call it so this wheel has a rubber core Center
and it's pretty soft so you can see they have some voids cut
in this and that allows it to have some give to it now this may just look like kind of like
a grinder you know like a big grinder wheel but that give is the key to
understanding you get into the recesses and things like that you can't hog out make a groove in your
metal this will give some and of just smooth so this comes with different
bands that come on the outside and a number of different grits so you can get it up even to just real
fine almost 1,200 great if we work it well enough but this is really most
effective when you're doing casting or rough or metal or pits or things like
that this is going to really blast it really
easily so that's the first one here now we'll move on to the buff wheels so the first one here is a sisal is what
it's called say this is a really heavy cutting heavy aggressive cutting wheel so this one is good for steel iron
stainless those types of metals a little harder metals or something again that
sand cast it's really rough start with something like this now it uses most times are going to be
using like Emery or a compound like that are great greaseless solutions which
will show you a little bit with this wheel now the material it's
made out of its it's actually similar to the material that's used in like binders
twine like you'd see foreign newspapers or magazines this is a similar material or even like
if you look at it it's like balers twine so when you run your hand on this you
can feel it's it's pretty rough and this is going to cut really fast so this is
kind of like your first step when you're doing anything that's that's really
heavy cast or really hard to both materials that's the first one now the next thing
we're going to be talking about here i'm going to pick up a couple of them these are our spiral stone so these can be sown and a little
different on each one and it's just for the different configuration a little
softer or this one its own has a lot more stitching in it and was going to
cut a little harder but they're both basically considered a medium cut off
wheels and use these generally with Tripoli this is going to be your workhorse
basically this is going to be the the buff wheel so you're probably be using
the most because these are going to be working it out and getting it basically
gets that nice shiny finish so you want to keep a bunch of these
around four different compounds and you can do a two-step process we can work
with one that's more that's the heavily stitch like this and
work up to one like this it's going to have a little more gift to it so that's those basic to remember these
are going to be the ones are going to be probably most important for you now another one that's this is the one
that a lot of guys basically just stop with this is our loose section buff so this is basically just a bunch of
real fine pieces of cotton I'm almost feels like felt there on the
edge but these ones just have a single stitch in the center and a really loose so this isn't going to do much cutting
it all this is more for final buffing or coloring coloring is basically just
determined they use an industry for like a mirror finish this is going to bring
out the final natural shine of the metal that you're polishing buffing so you're going to use this with white
the white rouge which will be showing you the different types of compounds in
a little bit but this is the white rouge one that you'll be using most guys are
fine with what looking up to this this wheel and the
weight Rouge that's going to give you a holly close
to mirror polish by doing that that's that's fine for most people but if you
want to take it to the next step and get there like show finish the real mirror
finish that out you know your your wife to do her makeup in this is the one
you're going to want to hear you want to use our canton wheel here a sec and
flannel wheel and yet this is the the most delicate wheel that you're going to
use it's going to bring out the brilliant shine of the metal and it's
used basically only for coloring or the really high polishing this one you only want to use this with the white
or jewellers Rouge so this again this is the final one and
a little tip is you don't want to mix this at all even if it's your last Buffy more you
got waiting around don't mix this one with the emory of the Triple A or
anything like that because it doesn't work well with this and if you try to
reuse this again no matter how much you Queen it at this
stage where you need to be with this it's probably scratch the metal to keep
these separate aside and only use them for jewelers or white Rouge so those are the basic buff wheels that
we have available for a buff motors now we also have which we are going to
show in a little bit we have a kit that comes with our small buff kit that you
can basically use a drill and it comes with all these different shapes of Bob's
in buff we also it comes with the loose the loose section and the spiral soon
like we showed you already but this is a cheap affordable kit that's around 40 bucks you can get this
kit but this is great for getting the tight areas you can do like wheels and
more dealt like things are more intricate these are great for using that
for so it's really good to have this kid around and also a buff motor with the
big wheels to really effectively buff most anything you're going to come
across an automotive restoration so now we showed you different wheels
and give you a rundown we're gonna go through the compounds now it's a
multi-step process like we talked about so you're gonna have a bunch of
compounds and a lot of times our customers we have questions which
compounds are used for here and there and you know when to get to the next
compound so i'm going to show you each of those and we are again we're going to
go from it the most aggressive down to the other
brilliant shine at the end so this one here is our memory it's probably be tough to see but this
one is generally black or dark gray color you'll find each company's
compounds may different color so you may come across one that you know ours is
ours is black or gray here and there's might be you know why you're here with
gray or not black or whatever you want to make sure you check with whatever kit
or brand you're buying to make sure that what they they consider you know Emery is whatever colors so yeah after all that this is emery this is
going to be your heaviest cutting fast cutting compound of these compounds are
made up basically of a wax type substance and then there's an additive
that's put into it that's like a that's aggressive additive put in here that's actually going to do the cutting
now each of these compounds they have different grits just like you would
sandpaper that are added in with the waxy substance that's what actually does
the cutting so when you have these and you put it on
the wheel the reason i have the waxy substance is when you put the heat from
putting against the buff wheel it's going to actually melt it on and
that's what makes it become like the glue to grip your buff wheel so this one here again is the emory it's
a really fast cutting it's great for hard metals this is going to basically
be your step one that's going to be four irons stainless steel those type of
things you want to start with this if you've got a really rough part and
then you can go from there so that's the first one again that's like a black
color generally the next one this is this is
basically mainly for stainless steel only it can be used on some irons and
things like that on harder materials but this is we generally quarters are
stainless compound but you want to use this on spiral or vented ventilated
wheels and this is basically step 24 stainless or real hard metals basically
stainless so it's gonna be like your intermediate step vs so many other metals so this one for us
is generally again a gray in color so it's good to you know put a piece of
tape or mark your your compounds because as they wear down your get rid of the little notches we put a
little ticks on the back of these just to tell you what it is but as you get
down you're going to end up ripping that piece of cardboard off and forget what
it is so make a mark was there is a big step difference between the memory and
the step to here so you can be going backwards if the internet if you switch
them between themselves so the next one is a like we said the
spiral stone is like the workhorse of the buffing wheels this is the Tripoli Tripoli is the
workhorse your compounds so this is going to be the compound
you're probably going to be using the most this one does a lot of work you probably
go through this twice as fast as you're going to go through wake the the weight
room for the jewellers Rouge so this was great to keep around this is
really step one for a woman home and copper and brass some of the softer
metals this is going to be your step one the
other the other ones are a little too aggressive and probably are going to cut
a little too fast so you use this with a woman on you can even use this on like
plated so if you have something that's anodized or chrome plated could use this
too lightly bring up the shine in those you're going to be using spiral so again or eventually are ventilated a
buffing wheels with this compounds as you can see it's a bunch of compounds
are going to be using with those wheels but this one you're going to really take
some time on this one is where you're going to start to see some shine there's
other ones are just going to kind of smooth it out you're going to start seeing a shine
here uses almost start to see a light reflection to kind of run your finger
above the part where you're going through this that's what it's about time
to move to the next one you can start seeing a reflection with your finger so after you have the Tripoli you then
going to move on to your weight Rouge so this is pretty much almost every
manufacturer obviously it's in the name white roots going to be white so this is
kind of step 2 for a woman home copper brass steal this is the one that
a lot of guys are fine with stopping with you just to give this is where you
can work it with the different both wheels and work your way up to the
Canton and you can get a pretty pretty darn good mirror finish with this so this one is
really considered for the final coloring and that's that's gonna be a brilliant
shine that you that you looking for you see on most cars and for
instance I'll grab from here this wheel is what they did with the
with the Tripoli so it's a little dirty because it's been
sitting around but you can see that sweet it's really really pretty darn
shiny and this is fine for most people but if you want that you know really top
showcar quality finish then you're going to want to move on to the next compound
here set this down carefully about dropping it that's going to be our jewelers Rouge so this is generally like a red or
maroon color most most brands have seen out there for that way so this is really step 3 for pretty much
any metal this is going to be your final polish this is basically has no cutting
agent in it that's going to be abrasive at all so
this one's just for final coloring mirror polishing you're going to want to
really only use this one with like the flannel the flannel captain wheel or
like the like a final flaw I'm sorry I felt like a tough wheel so this is just for the real fine ones
and it's only going to do that it's just going to take it from the White ruse
that's pretty darn more reflective to like a mirror this is going to be almost
chrome if you work it well enough with this so this was a great final step if you
have the patience to go that far this really makes a difference between a
you know pretty good polish part 2 like a wow this is amazing polish bar so this is this is a really good one so
the West compound here I know we're talking about metal but this is the last
one that we offer a lot of our kits for good I just show it while we're there is
a blue bruise that we offer this is basically really only for plastic it's
really really hot really light cutting so it's not much cutting it all but it
does have a little bit of a cut to it and it's for plastic so a good idea you know like wax and windows or
something like that you can use this to kind of bring them back and make a mom
to bring the clarity back in those I'm use this with the spiral stone wheel really that's the only one you're going
to be using it with it's a kind of one-step process it's good to mention if you have
anything that's plastic that so this will bring it back if you work it
lightly so now that we've shown you those the
West one that i mentioned i alluded to hence not very appealing looks wise but
this is our greaseless compound that we offer a friend in a number of different
grits but this is more of a really highly aggressive compound so the grease this compound is it goes
from like an 80 grit which this is all the way up to a 320 this is what you're
going to want to use if it's like a cast like a cast manifold or if you have an
old set up cat sand castle women on wheels this is what you want to start with you
put this on your buff wheels on the bus murder you can really blast through some
rough pieces of metal and get them nice and flat and smooth that out so it's
good to have these kits these are a little different you're
going to actually apply this and you have to sit and wait it out let it dry
before you actually start a point before you start buffing and make sure they
keep these at a really high heat I've had instances where I had these in
the garage and hundred-degree weather and actually starts to melt a little bit
so they are susceptible to that so make sure you keep a minute you know kind of
climate controlled area so we're not going to show you this one in action
it's a little bit Messier to show you on camera but this one is really good for
for fixing the the casting have one part here that we just hit up real quick that
I want to show it's just an old supercharger casing here so you could
see if I can hold it well enough for the camera this is the
original really rough casting used uh we use the expander wheel and you know a
little bit of the greaseless compound in here to smooth it out so this made it way smoother and just
you know it's been a few minutes on just in this little section here smooth it out versus the rough casting
side makes a big difference and you know trying to do a buff wheel with this is
not going to work you're going to spend hours and hours you're not even going to
be to this smooth so remember it's easy to start with the
more aggressive compounds on something like this and work your way up and spent
hours trying to you know but it was just the Tripoli or something like that so hope we can see with that so now that
we've got the compounds down and we've got the wheels down now we're
going to talk about safety first thing about safety with bluffing now you got a wheel on a bluff motor on
the drill that spinning pretty fast and get things caught it so you want to make sure that you're
wearing pretty tight clothing you have long hair you got it tied back and you
want to make sure you make where the see the proper safety protection I got one of our East would work jackets
on here always but in the sleeves here make sure it's nice and tight so I don't
get anything caught in the wheel so the first thing that you need is uh
of course just safety glasses so I want to put on some safety glasses make sure
nothing gets in your eye of course just like anything when you're working the
next thing is our dust mask here his face shield we sell these these are
really good a lot of times guys don't use these and they regret when you're
bluffing it's throwing compound is throwing
material back at you so if you if you didn't wear this in a few minutes you're
going to have a black face so it's really good to wear this to you
know both save your face from getting covered in dirt but it's also you know
for safety precautions if anything flies off its not going to you know puncture
you if you put you know its interface so put that one on and of course i like to use just some
like just generic whether work wats and get these at the you know the tractor
supply store or something like that you put something on your hand so if you
if you get you know against the wheel a lot of times when you're bluffing
we're getting pretty close to the two that spinning wheel and you don't want
to accidentally get your finger quarter or hit in it so i want to put those on
and then generally what I'm doing a lot of buffing i'm going to use like a
little dust dust mask some kind of face you know respiratory type protection so
today I'm just doing really white coffee i'm just going to do a few seconds here
and there so so you guys can still hear me i'm gonna i'm going to not wear this for
just a little bit but if you're doing heavy cutting and rough buffing you know
if you're spending hours buffing definitely sure you wear that yet those
are those black bodies that you put out you see you come out at the end of the
day they're not good they're going through your system you don't you don't
want this so now we get all our safety protection
for going next thing we're going to show you on the buff wheel here is the safe
area of a buff motor there's a safe area when you're bluffing
and we're using today just the half horsepower single speed buff motor that
that we sell at eastwood and also you know it's on our just our economies that
stand so this is the most basic setup you can
get and it's really affordable for about basically two hundred bucks you have a nice little box thing set up
that this can do ninety percent of the work that a guy who is going to be
dealing we offer also offer a two-speed one
horse model that's a little more towards the professional side if you're doing a
lot of bluffing you may want to step up to that one but
we're going to show you this one today it's really good it works well so the
safe half of the buff wheel so this buff motor here spins down like this so it's spinning
down towards the ground there's a safe part you want to stay on
this on the side here you want stable well you want to stay
towards the bottom half of that you don't want to get up above that into
this area because that's going to want to catch whatever you're bluffing throw it actually is going to do the
stroll across the room so you need to make sure that everything around you
just in case that happens to your worker you don't have anything that can get
damaged you know you don't want a car window or
you know people to be standing around you when you're doing this even if
you're really skilled it can happen you could get grabbed and you know throw a
constant across the room so i'm going to show you just real quick and lightly what you know just how the kick is when
that happens and show you where the safe area of the wheel is and then we'll show
you how to put some compound on next and then I'll just do a little bit of
buffing with some trip away on the compound so i'm gonna show you just a we
grab a part here just a little scoop that we've been you know we use for
testing and things so it's a little piece you have here so put this on like I said it's rotating down so you're
bluffing you want you know have a nice wide stance and want to grip the part
really firmly that you know the second you start wedding go with this part and
loosen your grip it could grab and throw it across the room to make sure you're
always grabbing this pretty tightly so you want to stay like I said it was
the bottom part of the wheel yeah and you can work it back and forth so
that's you know just a quick demonstration of safe part another now
the bad part that you don't want it you know obviously get towards the top and
I'm going to try and kind of dramatize it for you but you want it you don't
want to get up to the top because it's gonna be going to start kicking and you
can hear it kind of grab when you get you can get there it's not it's not nice you know it wants to throw throw it back
you so you want to stay again was the bottom half of the wheel and just work
the front or the face of the wheel so what we have that on i'm going to
show you next how to apply some compounds and then
I'll just do a little bonding section and kind of show you the action a little
bit and I'm going to do the backside of this here you can see we buff to hear it
right in there is an area we haven't touched yet so I'm going to work in that
area real quick with the Tripoli just to do some quick smoothie and bring the
Polish a little bit to see how quickly you can get you know an area like that buffed up so i set this down for a
moment and we'll get the just a small that's a small this is out of the small
kit that we have opened up this is the trip away so now this straight here when
you're doing the compound a lot of mistakes that people make is they put
too much compound on the put to have a really just jamming into the wheel and
discount get on that's bad you don't want to do that you
only really want to put it on for like a second or two at a time and that's it light pressure second or two at a time
but the will do the work it will put sufficient amount of
compound on the wheel so again you want to stay towards the
bottom half of the wheel now we're doing this tightly sewn spiral
soon peace here so just go back and forth that's like you know two seconds that's
that's basically all you need to start buffing it's better to put on a little
bit of compound often than to put on too much compound and that and then have a
problem so let me to show you here on this piece how to buff this so I'm gonna against a
towards the bottom half yeah yeah you got to be careful of those edges
even when you're towards the bottom there you know you saw a little bit when i get
too close to the edge if you're going against the edge and wants to pull it in
that's where it's good to have your hands you know just right so i have an edge
here I don't want to go against that you want to work with it so I'm going to turn the piece here and work down like that so I don't catch
any edges yeah yeah even get little this a little bit of
division line here so that's just a quick now brought it up
you can see how it took a lot of the corrosion away there pretty quickly with
the trip away so this one I probably put a little more
compound on work this area a little more and you can eventually once i get
everything nice and smooth I can work to another wheel that's maybe
a little with some more loosely sown and some more Tripoli to get it you know start bringing it up so that
gives you an idea kind of your the angle you need to stand and you know how you
work the peace so we just have this buff motor here let's fight me a little bit moving just
for this for this display here we moved in area could see you can see in our
studio here but you really want to try if you're doing a lot of buffing you
want to try and both this down we just have some sandbags on just for a
temporary thing so you guys can get the best angle when we're doing this but
normally we have this any other side of the shop we have this bolted down to the
concrete that's right that's really the best thing that you need to do but I'm
sacrificing my safety just for you guys a little bit so now we showed you those basic some
the buffing with the with that piece there you were going to move on
basically to the drill with the small kit here this kid again you can just put it on
the drill really easy to use and i'm gonna show you what this wheel here just
pull the cord out of the way here so right so this wheel used to you know
started out life like the one we showed you and it has a little bit of Tripoli
that I wear it on here so we're going to just show you how to do this this corner
here and i actually forgot the last time for my mast down I apologize hope you guys can hear me
with this down so but this down here and i'm going to do just this little area
here best to have this clamped in advice but
again just for this is you guys could see it the best i'm going to just work
it right here and this is where these conical shaped stuff pads are really
good yeah so this works in the edge really nice so let me set this down and show it to
the camera here to see you guys can see that good kind of like this in here
worked versus the area its kind of dull so it's just a quick quick little both
are brought up and now it's probably hard to see here on the on the live
stream but just a quick little buff they're already bringing that shine back
so that again that was just with the Tripoli really fast you guys can see but
that's why those cone-shaped wheels are really good because if you try and fit
this around the buff motor have actually had times where with doing a lip just
like this I was bluffing kind of stuffing inside
and get around to that that bad area of the wheel and according throwing so
trying to fit this around the wheel is really dangerous you don't want to try
and do that you know this is way faster you want to
try and use the those conical shaped ones to get into all the corners and
buff these areas on something like a wheel you know we will whip especially like a
deep-dish well it might get caught you know in the buff wheel so now we showed you the buff you know
the different buffing ways to buff and you know some things to watch out for we've got a handful of tips and tricks
that I was just going to kind of go over we know everybody here is always buff
and stuff for the car is kind of quiz a few guys some stuff that I've done they may help you along the way so one
of the first things is when you're trying to determine what you want to
buff so if you have something you know apart
the one above again we'll use this use this wheel for you know instance you
have this wheel here and it's you know you're not sure if this thing's been
clear coated at some point if it's anodized or whatever how can you tell before you start if
this is bare metal or not a really quick way one of our guys Nick kind of told me that he uses and
its really really great so use a sum Otto saw just a white rag
like this and you basically put some auto saw on the rag and you wipe the the
piece that you're curious about with the white rag now if this piece is bare metal what will happen is it's going to turn
black when you're robbing this so when i'm running this here turns
black so that's bare metal we know this is
bare metal I could start polishing this now if this was Anna dies if this was
clear coated some point it may be difficult to tell especially if it's
something that's been sitting for a while and you're not sure where even
powder coating have some clear powders it's hard to tell this isn't going to turn black like this
it's not going to really do much of anything except just be the weight all
the salt when you rub it so if you rub it really quick that you
get a black rag that's when you know that your bare metal and you can start
polishing or buffing if it does not need to strip it mechanically or chemically
before you even start doing any of this process we're talking about so where you know you need to blast it
where you need to go move it with a grinder or something like that or you
know a paint remover so that's that's one cool little trick
that you know to save you some time and headaches if you're you're doing that
now another thing I'm i hinted to a little bit was you know keeping your
your butt pads separate along the way so if you have stuff pads that you have a
bunch of both pads you know sitting around like this and
you want to keep them separate so you don't want to mix you know a pad that
you're using mostly only trip away on with the pad that you may be one time
use the memory on or something else so you want to keep these separate and
labeled so the thing that you know we like to do and I do it around my shop
take a ziploc bag like this just a big one throw your compound you're using with
whatever wheels in here and then label it you set the ghost so that way if the if
the tube of compound gets worn down you can't see where the writing on it
anymore as you rip away the cardboard and you can't tell us we can keep it all
together and labeled so you don't go backwards when you accidentally use a
wheel that's got you know some other compound on it so it makes saves time
because you're not you're not fumbling around and you know keep so much more
organized in the garage and even though the compounds are different color the biggest turn black in the end you
know as soon as you start buffing they turn black so you're not going to tell
what the heck was on the wheel previously so that that's a cool the thing to keep your keep you
organized so another thing if in between muffing in between your different stages
of bluffing when you switch compounds and even you know when you start with a
wheel even if you haven't separated like I
said one thing you want to use is uh we have a buff break is one way to do it so
basically with this you can clean out your wheels so you want to use this in
between every compound so this is really good to put on the wheel between every
compound so you basically hold it like that it's
going to spin down and it's going to take off the gunk so I did a little bit
here and you can it's quite impossible to see but it's
going to pick up all that gunk and you can easily pick it off but that's going
to clean your wheel in between so this is a necessity if you don't have
different stuff wheels for different compounds you need to be doing this between each
one and thoroughly because otherwise it's going to your mixing compounds your
oxen also miss mixing a little fine pieces of metal they caught get caught
in this especially when you're doing a woman armor and a softer metals so if you don't have one of these and
you're in a bind or if you have the small kit like we talked about you know
what one of these it's a lot more difficult to use the
rake with you know the smaller small job get like that you can use a screwdriver
just a hat and usual flathead screwdriver so you can just hold it
against and I drag it across lightly and it will pull it out so same thing on the on this over here
you can put it on there and work it now you have to be it's a little more dangerous with this
with the bottom over here because it can get caught throw it across the room so that's
another cool little thing that you can do make sure you clean in between so now that we've covered you know some
of those things last couple things is how to maintain or how to keep your your
your parts are already highly polished shine how to keep them from doing up so it can
happen really quick with a lot of metals so if you're using something that
doesn't necessarily rust like steel you know just a mild steel the Polish
mild steel you need to coat it somehow because it's going to flash rust just
that quick you know any moisture in air is going to start rusting so you need to
put something on it the other other metals like no copper aluminum obviously stainless
steel don't have that issue but like a women especially it's going to start doing or slowly
corroding over time so the first thing you can do that's kind of a temporary
solution is again the other song so you can use the auto saw on the white
rag like I said wipe it around the park that's polished and then wipe it off
with a clean rag and that's going to basically bring that lost her back and also we have is a really fine film
on it that keeps the part from you know corroding this is good for short term or
something that's all it's only garage kept it doesn't really
ever see bad weather it's good for that is going to last a
while you doing our cars sees whether a little more it's going to be short term you might
have to do this a little more often or every time you watch the car you might want to put a little film of
this on but this does work pretty well this is a tried true thing that guys
have been using since you know being a beginning of time so the next thing that we came out with
its kind of a little more medium to semi permanent solution at least one metal
protect so this comes in an aerosol can and it works on that nano barrier
technology so this is actually like a film that goes on it's not a paint it's a film that
actually you like we spray on the idea what this you spray on real light dust
coats along the way and this leaves a film and you can actually watch it kind
of self level as you put it on this is nearly invisible once it's on if you if
you apply it correctly will be nearly invisible so you want to apply this let it sit put another coat on you put
maybe two three coats on tops and this is going to leave that barrier on that
will hold up to rain and weather and you know even washing the car this will hold up to it so the way you
can remove this is with like an acetone or are free you can wipe it off you
don't want to use any kind of etching type chemicals you know trying to remove this but it
will come off that way I've had a car that I used the idea we drove for a year
through east coast weather you know winter and summer and I had it all set
of wheels that I left this on for a year and it worked pretty well about after a
year that's a nice i decided to you know take
it off and reapply it so this stuff's pretty good if you put
this on the corner of your garage – <operand> sixty </operand> only a
weekend show car this is probably the last a wife for
that you know the life until you decide to change your wheels to change the
parts or whatever you know painted flat black if it's in
that season so that's that the other thing here is diamond clear Dominique where is pretty much our
permanent solution to your ceiling up polished parts or bare metal parts so this particular we have a number of
different versions for painted and unpainted this one here is our gloss for
unpainted services for bare metal surfaces this is the one you're gonna want to use
for really highly polished parts now it is a clear coat so it's gonna
dull highly polished finish finishes a little bit but again if you apply in
light coats you can you can keep that to the minimum
but I this is going to seal it up and basically again it's a clear coat so you
can you can polish this one not you know not bought for polish it but you can rub
it you can spray you know when you wash the
car and it's not going to come off you don't have to worry about it as much so that's it that's a cool little
product that you can use to seal it up if you're not the kind of guy that wants
to polish your car polisher parts every time you wash it and the last one here
that i just i forgot to mention i just want to circle back on before were take
some questions when you apply too much compound you're going to see a black black build
up here and this is where where I try to do this on the before we started but a
little too much compound on there where bluffing and you can see there's a black
residue that's that's left is a greasy residue the more compound you have the
worst this is going to get so if you're bluffing an area and you see like a
greasy black circle around where you're bluffing you probably have too much compound on
your way all you need to start over so you need to use the rake Queen it out
fully and then play a little bit of compound when you're done so to remove
that you can use our pre that we that we say for you know cleaning before
painting this is great for removing compound
without damaging your finish so i like to use the pre and spray it on wipe it
off and that'll take it off this is also great in between compounds
use this with a month microfiber wipe the part real good before you changed your new we
are new compound and this solo this will take off all the oak old compound so
you're not you know again fighting yourself so this is a good one it's also really
cool when you get what's the N use this spray it on weight
down every so often and it's really it's really cool to see your progress where
you're coming when you wipe off that little bit of compound you like while this thing is really shiny so keep
this around it's always good to use no matter what
you're doing in the shop so that's all my tips that I have today and puffing
talk that we have hope you guys found in informational you have anything else
question wise i'd love to take some questions to play can answer amount do
the best so what's the first question that we
have guys are anodized is actually it's it's like a it's really it's a plating
is the best way to to go into it and like a lot of pleadings they seem to work best when you when you
have a they work and look best when you have a highly polished surface so
something its polished especially again with chrome chrome is the perfect one
that needs to be as highly polished as per as possible to get the best finish
so energizing a similar way it's gonna you know if you have a cast part of
something like that it's not going to work nearly as nice yes it may stick to
it but it's not going to look as nice ok so the question was how much mill
marks in a part can be removed when you're polishing so if anybody is not understanding the
question when some parts that are coming out like wheels and things like that
their spawn or milled and you actually see the Tony marks on a mobile wheel is
a perfect example that's a spun wheel on the whip you might see just a bunch of rings
lines around the whip that's the marks that we're talking
about here if you can feel them with your fingernail if you drag them across and you can feel
with your fingernail they're probably too deep to polish out
with just a good just a buffing wheel and compound you may need to go to the expander wheel
with a graceless compound where you may even go all the way to some kind of
sandpaper you know do it old school and just blocks and it out you need to get those marks out to a
point where you can't film with your fingernail and then at that point you
can probably really move to the greaseless compound blast through any
remnants of that marks and then start buffing now that's a really good
question i don't i don't know if there's a professional answer as far as what the
industry standard is my experience is just a guy in the garage I use these things till they start frame
pretty brat badly if you have a spiral stone wheel you get down to that first
bit of stitching it's it's probably time to replace that we are once you start
getting into the stitching because it's going to start coming apart and creating
a mess wheels like like the the loose the loose
wheels like this that have done for more than finishing those wheels are probably
West you know a number of these wheels before you have to replace this one but
placing buffing wheels are special but murder you don't have to do it very often if
you're using the ones that are in the drope the smaller kit that that may be a
little more often but you know once you get down to that stitching starts coming
apart frame really badly probably a good time to you know throw
it in the trash well a lot of guys I'm sorry the
question I keep forgetting to give us do the question was how do we deal with the
dust buildup when you're doing a lot of heavy
bluffing so a lot of a lot of people if they have the room it's best to build a corner your shot
you can kind of just make a little isolated area where you're only doing
your you're polishing and buffing your grinding in that area because that's
going to keep it consolidated other than having some kind
of hvac system that you can you can pull it out there's not really a good way to keep it
contained other than making yourself a little room so one thing you could do
that I did in my own little shop is I made a little curtain in my dirty work
area you can pull across and kind of separate yourself that that's going to
keep most of the you know the heavy dust and compounds getting thrown around just
in that side that will look at the shop you know and then the rest of some nicer
cars sitting or you know whatever you don't want that getting on not too much it's going to get on it so
you could do that just make a little little shield or a little curtain you can put up to you block that kind of
stuff any other questions we have what metals cannot be polished I don't know if there is a metal that
can't be polished per se some metals are better or polish easier
but I mean you can polish if you take the time you can't polish a cast-iron manifold so
you can take a cast iron manifold working with the expander wheel you can
work with the compounds you can eventually get that pretty darn shine now each metal naturally has a higher
luster than others so if you have a you know something that's a woman vs a
cast-iron they're not going to you know it's not going to be quite the same but
you can you know you can get most any metal polished it's all about how much time and
patience you have any tips for buffing really small parts
the small buff kit is a definite if you're doing something really intricate
because if you get too small you really you can't hold it in in in
your hands and get in here and buff because it'll grab it and throw it
across the room now I've done pretty small stuff like
say oh like right now a project that i'm doing a button head stainless Allen bolt so I'm like
everything in the engine bay so I'm bluffing every single bolt in the bay I've been
using pliers like but like you know some walking grip pliers and I've been
clamping down on them a little bit and holy and just like we doing it you can do something like that with
pliers if you can put in a vice you know no matter if you have some of
the soft gels for your advice you could put it in that lightly and
work your way around it it's def way more difficult but i would
advise just trying to hold it with your hand and buff around probably gonna get
hurt or damage the parts I'm system will ya that you could I'm sorry when the question was when is
good to use the system will how often should you use it since the wheel like I mentioned is step one for really
hard metals or roughcast items so you could use it on that the rough cast on
charger case that i showed you you could use it on that with either the
greaseless compound or the emory and you can work with that so it depends on the part generally with
most of the women on parts and softer metals you wouldn't be using that you
would mainly use that on stainless steel cast cast iron and you know things like
that little harder materials if you have to you could use it on a woman on that's
a rough sand casting you need to be careful because that could take away a
lot of material and even with a woman on you could take away too much you can dig
yourself a little valley with if you're not careful but it's really up to you
what to use it's always better to start with a
compound or a wheel that's too soft then too rough so if you work with
something that's a spiral soon and it's not really making a dent in it then
maybe you need to jump up the sisal but unless you want something rough like
cast-iron you may wanna you may want to start with something smooth something
more delicate and work your way back to that really I wouldn't I wouldn't I wouldn't advise
it I'm sorry the mic you find the question
was can you put a buffing wheel like we're showing here on just a normal like
orbital car buffer for paint I it may be able to be done but I don't think it
would be the best situation because when you're doing those those are designed
when you see a buff pad it's like the top of the buff pad you're
using so when you're pushing down using the top of the buff pad to push down on
the paint and using the top of that wheel these wheels so it basically you imagine
to be this part you need to be using this is the face of a buffing of a buff
pad right here so it's actually the I you know a different part of it that
you're using so it'd be difficult to hold up normal
bus sander you have to be so kind of hold it like straight up and down really awkward like
to to buff with that and you probably it's so awkward he probably just causing
more damage than good so i would really advise that i'm not even sure if these
would blow it up correctly with that so you're really you're better to use this
or use the small kit with the drill so that was all the questions we had
that we're going to answer on air there's any additional questions that we
didn't answer that our tech online didn't answer will be posting them
online to our blog next week will also be uploading this to our East which
channel so you tube .
Eastwood co will be uploading this video recorded version
that anybody can watch up until then we'll be loading it on
this is this page here that you're watching it on now you can watch it
there a recorded version almost immediately on there you'll be able to
watch that and you know if you have any ideas for future tech demos we really
appreciate everybody's been watching shouting feeding back asking questions
it's really great for you hopefully you and also us so give us some ideas drop us a wine on
our blog as a comment on facebook on youtube or just shoot us an email or
call one of the sales reps and just you know give them your idea if you have an
idea for another tech demo and we'll do our best to put out tech demos that you
guys want to see that's a lot for watching we'll catch you next time yeah.